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  • May 19, 2014 New Perfume Review: Amouage Journey for Woman and Journey for Man + The Two Paths of Christopher Chong Draw

    Christopher Chong, the Creative Director of Amouage, has journeyed to his roots and his love for Shanghai Deco,  Chinese cinema and film noir to create his two new fragrances, Journey Woman and Journey Man. Drawing on his personal life and experiences, and integrating other art forms, he worked with Firmenich perfumers Alberto Morillas and Pierre Negrin to bring very different ways of traveling to life: Journey for Woman isa quiet, observing traveler that first lays out a path”, and Journey for Man “takes an intrepid leap into the unknown.”

    When I first saw that osmanthus was in the list of notes for Journey for Woman, I became excited to try it, as osmanthus is a note I seek out. I was not disappointed. The opening of this perfume is breathtaking; sweet and summery with a juicy apricot note that made me have to go eat one of the pretty apricots in my fruit bowl. Osmanthus itself has a sueded apricot aroma, and the addition of extra fruit is lovely. As the fragrance warms on skin, it becomes increasingly elegant and made me wish I had a cheongsam, which is a dress style I have always wanted and am not built for. I wasn’t surprised to see jasmine tea in the notes list, because I could definitely smell it. If I made my perfect cup of tea, it would be a good jasmine-scented oolong with a heap of tiny dried osmanthus flowers in it and it would smell something like this fragrance. The perfume surpasses any tea, though, and I am thoroughly enjoying having it on my skin. As it dries down, it becomes softer, more demure, but doesn’t fade for a long time. I wore it one evening and could still smell it in the morning, just a bit of sweetness peeking through. Journey for Woman not only suits my travel style, which is mostly planning with a bit of leaping, but suits my olfactory style, and I can see adding the gorgeous red and gold bottle to my collection.

    Notes: Apricot, Jasmine Tea, Osmanthus, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Jasmine Sambac, Mimosa, Honey, Cedarwood, Pipe Tobacco, Saffron, Vanilla, Cypriol, Musk

    Journey for Man is a powerhouse of spice and heat. I can see how this would represent a leap into the unknown, because it is bold and unafraid. It bypasses some of the notes commonly used in masculine fragrances these days, primarily woods, and they are not missed. This is a wonderfully complex scent; each time I put my wrist to my nose I detected different aspects. A bit of a clean note here, a touch of citrus, oh, some leather, all mingled in the gorgeous spiced aura. All together it smells slightly dangerous, like a man wearing it might have a perilous occupation, like a character in a Chinese film noir. I’d love to smell him. However, the tagline from the old Irish Spring soap commercials comes to mind: “Manly, yes, but I like it, too!” I know many women who go for the more deeply-scented perfumes, like me, who will want to try and might prefer Journey for Man.

    Notes: Sichuan Pepper, Bergamot, Cardamom, Neroli, Bigarade, Juniper Berries, Incense, Pure Gerniol, Tobacco Leaves, Tonka Beans, Cypriol, Leather, Ambrox

    Were I given the difficult choice of having to pick one over the other, I would pick Journey for Woman to own, but that’s not to say Journey for Man is less wonderful. Each of us seeks something different in our perfumes, just as we all embark on different journeys. I would wear either one with great joy.

    I received samples courtesy of Amouage. These will be available in 50ml and 100 ml sizes at select stockists worldwide and the Amouage website as soon as June.

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    Fleurs de Rocaille is the legendary perfume of the house of Caron launched in 1933. It was created by Ernest Daltroff form the notes of palisander, bergamot, gardenia and violet at the top; the heart of the perfume is inhabited with oriss root, jasmine, Narcissus, rose, carnation, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, lilac, mimosa and iris, whilst the base is warm thanks to amber, sandalwood, musk and cedar. The bottle was designed by Felice Bergaud, and is available as edp, deodorant and body lotion. Fleurs de Rocaille was launched in 1934.
    FLEURS DE ROCAILLE was the perfume alluded to in the film. This is the perfume that Al Pacino was talking about in SCENT OF A WOMAN!


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  • Grossmith London Fragrantica reviews

    A beautiful chypre, with strong notes of musk, woods and incense. Although I don't see incense actually listed, it must surely be here somewhere, giving that dry, exotic resonance which is so unusual today. This perfume is dark and deep and very definitely "Oriental", not simply an English version of Oriental. I picture the beautiful Lady Murasaki composing her secret incense recipes in the dimly illuminated chambers of the Emperor's Court. Heian princesses with ankle-length raven hair, arrayed in layer on layer of gorgeously coloured kimonos and undergarments, flit through the rooms on their way to assignations. Under the silver moon, a pale lover is writing a poem to the lady of his desire. She dabs on a little Hasu-no-Hana and hurries out to meet him, away from the prying eyes of the court. What a picture, and what a perfume!


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  • Xerjoff Nio fragrantica Reviews

    Xerjoff Nio's opening is the most beautiful citrus opening you will ever come across. It sparkles, shines, dazzles, is bright, it's blindingly brilliant, like a flawless diamond - that describes the teXture of its opening.
    With bergamot that is so tangy, tart and tantalising that one gets that tingling sensation on the tongue that you feel when u taste lime juice. This ultra naturalistic accord is given eXtra bouyancy with the heft and creaminess of the Jasmine and Neroli. What you get is a citrus accord that is amplified beyond belief. It's projection is beyond strong, it is eXplosive!
    Where Nio is a miracle is in the tenacity of those top notes. On a subconscious level, we're trained by repetition of eXperience to sense the vibrancy of zesty top notes fade quickly ... Nio's top notes seem to defy all that is normal. I call Nio the supernatural citrus. I say this as a person who has always held disdain for citrus fragrances, describing them as basic and boring
    About 4 - 5 hours in the citrus notes finally begin to transition into the heart and Nio's true nature reveals itself as a Vetiver based fragrance complimented by spicy notes. These notes were always there as the woody base that the citrus composition rests its laurels on.
    Overall Xerjoff Nio is one of the all time great citrus based fragrances I've ever come across.
    This is a masterpiece. Truly one of the finest in its class. It manages to seem simple but it has profound compleXity and depth.
    It's my most complimented fragrance. Illiciting oohs and aaahs from perfect strangers at an alarming rate. Its performance is incredible for an aromatic citrus woody fragrance.
    Longevity - 9/10 *for a citrus

    Projection - 10/10

    Scent - 10/10
    Compliments - 10/10




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  • Introducing Grossmith London

    Grossmith, the revival of one of
    England's oldest perfume houses

    Having re-established Grossmith with our Classic Collection (Hasu-no-Hana, Phul-Nana, Shem-el-Nessim) and having reconnected with the Royal Family through our Royal Collection (Betrothal and Diamond Jubilee Bouquet) it is time to take Grossmith forward as a truly modern, innovative perfume house.

    Grossmith has created four completely new, modern fragrances, in the new Black Label Collection - a cool white floral, Floral Veil; two chypres, Amelia and Golden Chypre; and an oud, Saffron Rose.

    Grossmith has a stunning heritage and ambitious plans for the future: the house is drawing on its reputation for quality, craftsmanship and authenticity. Its exquisite new fragrances are being enjoyed around the world by perfume lovers who adore luxury and who seek individuality and exclusivity.



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